Classic Gorges of Northwest Catalunya
Visit the gorges of Vilanova de Meia, Terradets, Collegats and Mont Roig amongst others and discover the superb and varied climbing sectors of the Catalan pre-Pyrenees.
The immediate area boasts routes to suit all tastes: almost 1000 single pitch sports routes (from continental grade F4 to F9a); over 500 multi-pitch routes spanning all ranges of ability; and scores of big wall challenges up to half a kilometre high for specialists in traditional and aid techniques.
Add to this the refreshingly mild and sunny climate of the startlingly beautiful Montsec (Dry Mountains) and you have the recipe for the perfect climbing holiday.
To make the most of this spectacular region Climb Catalunya runs a special 3 centre holiday based around the main gorges of Vilanova de Meia, Terradets, and Mont Roig (with optional day-excursions to the other nearby sectors) through late winter, spring and autumn.
So, with all this on offer, why not check out our dates and book yourself some sunshine and the chance to explore some of Europe's highest quality but least crowded rock?
A TYPICAL ITINERARY
Day 1: |
Pick up Barcelona airport 18.00hrs; 2hr drive to Vilanova de Meia; overnight Vilanova de Meia. |
Day 2: |
Climb at Vilanova de Meia; overnight Vilanova. |
Day 3: |
Climb at Vilanova de Meia; overnight Vilanova. |
Day 4: |
30 minute drive to Terradets; climb at Terradets; overnight Terradets. |
Day 5: |
Climb at Terradets, Collegats or Abella de la Conca; overnight Terradets. |
Day 6: |
Climb at Terradets, Collegats or Abella de la Conca; overnight Terradets. |
Day 7: |
30 minute drive to Camarasa; climb at Sant Llorenc/Camarasa; overnight mountain refuge. |
Day 8: |
Climb at Mont Roig; drop off Barcelona airport 18.00hrs. |
Having picked you up at Barcelona airport we head straight for the mountains
. Our first 3 nights are spent in a friendly local bar/hostal in the pretty village of Vilanova de Meia, nestled in the valley at the foot of the Pas Nou gorge. The Bar, which has been putting up climbers for over a decade, prides itself on a warm welcome and on cooking with fresh home produce so we can look forward to the best of Catalan hospitality and a comfortable stay.
From here we head west spending the following 3 nights in an alberg converted from a small railway station set on the edge of a beautiful lake-land nature reserve at the mouth of the Terradets gorge. With impressive views up to the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees to the north our base is perfectly positioned to take advantage of all the climbing in the area and is a focus for the climbing community attracting guests from all over Europe.
Our final night takes us south and provides a chance to get away from it all in a remote mountain refuge at Mont Roig. The refuge accommodation is basic but this is more than made up for by the fantastic and peaceful setting, a real fire and a good camp meal. The setting provides an excellent chance for everyone to relax and reflect on the week as well as having many inspiring routes only five minutes walk from the door!
A high degree of flexibility is built into the general itinerary so in practice each trip is tailor made to the needs of those in the group to make the most of the following locations.
THE CLIMBING
Vilanova de Meia
Vilanova de Meia is probably the most popular gorge in the area due to the huge variety of climbing it offers and to its unquestionably idyllic setting. Here beautiful views and routes for all abilities are to be found together.
The centre piece of the gorge is without doubt the Roca dels Arcs which has over 50 routes of about 200 metres in length scaling its imposing and sheer grey and orange south facing walls. Choose from equipped and semi-equipped routes from 4+ to 7b to A5.
Other large faces include the Roca Alta and the Paret de Zarathustra, the Parets de Pas Nou and the Pilar de Segre. These faces offer every imaginable climbing challenge from easy multi-pitch routes up vertical and impeccable limestone, to athletic trad outings over strenuous overhangs, to dark caves and imposing pillars.
For less experienced climbers the buttress of Roca dels Arcs and the Gran Slab offer interesting, well bolted and less severely inclined 1 and 2 pitch routes.
As if all this is not enough Vilanova is dotted with sports sectors offering over 200 sports routes. Take on delicate slabs or brutal juggy overhangs depending on your mood while exploring every corner of this beautiful gorge.
Terradets
The Terradets gorge with its towering 500 metre faces inspires awe and yet provides superb routes for climbers of all levels. Characterized by thin horizontal breaks and a slightly off vertical inclination it favours thoughtful and balancy climbing, always demanding good footwork, strong fingers and a clear head.
The main wall, the Paret de les Bagasses, has over 50 equipped and semi-equipped routes ranging in length from 100 to 500 metres and spanning all the grades from 5 to 7a+. The intrepid and energetic are recommended to take on the 21 pitches of the CADE, the original and now emblematic route up the face, which involves easy climbing but a never less than epic journey. For those who like less well trodden routes the Peladet, opposite the main face, provides classic outings, both free and aid, over fantastic rock.
Roca Regina, a face of equal size and grandeur to Bagasses and only a stones throw away, is heaven for specialists in big wall and aid climbing offering over 20 routes of approximately 500 metres ranging in grade from 6a/A1 to A5. Used as a training ground by those heading to Yosemite this face should not be taken lightly. High level climbers may want to force some 
of the routes in free.
For those who would rather stick to sports climbing there are other alternatives. Single pitch sports climbing fanatics will want to head for Els Isards, a crenellated limestone crag, which has about 25 fingery routes of the highest quality from 6a up to 8b+.
And last, but by no means least, comes Les Bruixes a sector the shape of an overhanging bowl (currently very fashionable with the top international climbers) which offers about forty 30 metre routes up perfect tufas. Only for those with massive forearms.
Mont Roig, Sant Llorenc and Camarasa
The combined sectors of Mont Roig, Sant Llorenc and Camarasa provide an impressive variety of rock and stunning scenery in just a few square kilometres (not to mention an excellent bakery).
The dark perforated dolomitic rock of the central gorge at Camarasa offers spectacular 'pocket' climbing on the lower faces and snaking cracks up big needles (ideal for trad enthusiasts) a little higher up. The rock is oriented in all directions allowing us to choose between sun and shade according to the season. In winter the Crestes de Conill, precariously leaning thin flakes of slab, soak up all the sun while in summer La Calaeta, a tree-shaded bay of rock on the river's edge, guarantees us cool 
conditions and the chance of a swim.
Sant Llorenc, situated over a tranquil lake, is split in two: to the west is El Cilindre, a glowing orange curve of conglomerate rock reminiscent of the Mallos de Riglos, while to the east is the Paret de l'Os, a towering limestone crag characterised by granite-like mountain features. Both offer wonderful multi-pitch routes of radically different styles. For those finding their feet on multi-pitch routes La Formiguera wall offers secure, user-friendly routes on good rock. More confident parties will want to take on the magnificent trio of routes up the perfect grey limestone of the Remacha Spur. While rock-gods will want to head for the deep cave known as 'the Eye' to climb alongside 'Life Sentence' [Cadena Perpetua], the first 8c+ put up in the area.
Mont Roig, a raised up band of red limestone, dominates the skyline and provides a fitting location to end our holiday. If we are lucky we will experience the thrill of climbing in the early morning above a sea of mist stretching out across the plain far below. For our last day we can choose from equipped classics on the Pala Alta, more committing trad routes up the Paret dels Sostres and l'Extrem, or a selection of sports climbs around the Mare de Deu hermitage.
Collegats
The variety of rock in the area is extraordinary. The Collegats gorge offers exhilarating climbing on conglomerate rock. It is well worth a visit during the week.
Choose from 50 superbly equipped and pumpy routes on irregular shaped and unpredictable holds. Visit Sector Gramuntill and Roca Bonatti and take your pick of thirty equally engrossing 2-pitch routes.
Move on to Zona de la Figuereta if you are interested in dramatic routes winding up through chimneys and weird rock formations. Then, if you dare, Tyrolean across the thundering river and take on the demanding routes of Devil's Rock.
And if you still have energy investigate the Zona de Casilla and cherry-pick from the impressive array of classic multi-pitch routes (up to 400 metres in length) that dominate the central gorge.
Abella de la Conca
If you prefer the texture of perfect limestone and the challenge of super-technical and physically demanding one and two pitch routes then head for Abella, an isolated and peaceful canyon well off the beaten track. Choose from 60 of the finest routes you are ever likely to come across; but don't underestimate the grade!
Mont Rebei
And finally for those who like to go where very few have gone before there is the isolated and mythic gorge of Mont Rebei offering big wall challenges up to 650 metres. For experts in adventurous alpine-style climbing the gorge is known to present some major challenges - long , hard and savage! By special arrangement only.
