High Pyrenean Granite
In very few places in Europe is it possible to find granite climbing of such high quality in such a spectacular setting as in the High Pyrenees. Climb Catalunya is therefore very pleased to be able to offer special 9-day summer breaks to the magical Twisted Waters National Park in northwest Catalunya.
The 3-centre holiday we organise, based in high-altitude refuges (at heights of approximately 2000m), takes in the best of High Pyrenean Granite. With everything from state of the art bouldering, dedicated sports crags, semi-equipped slabs and great classic trad climbs up beautiful and aesthetically pleasing walls and needles (up to 3000m) there is something for everybody.
Add to this the pleasure of being able to explore endless valleys and hidden corners where you can still enjoy the solitude and beauty of the fabled Pyrenees and you have the recipe for the ultimate climbing trip.
A TYPICAL ITINERARY
Day 1: |
Pick up Barcelona airport 13.00hrs; drive to entry point High Pyrenees; overnight Vall de Boi. |
Day 2: |
Climb Cavallers; overnight Erill-la-Vall. |
Day 3: |
Climb Cavallers and Comeslestorres needles; overnight Erill-la-Vall. |
Day 4: |
Climb Comeslestorres, and the Sanctuary. Walk in to Travessani (2 hrs); overnight mountain refuge. |
Day 5: |
Climb Travessani; overnight mountain refuge. |
Day 6: |
Climb Travessani, Sword Mountain and Eden slabs ; overnight mountain refuge. |
Day 7: |
Climb Needles of the Magic Corner. Walk to Restanca (2½ hrs); overnight Restanca refuge. |
Day 8: |
Climb Restanca, Ocean Lake and the Dragon Spur; overnight Restanca refuge. |
Day 9: |
Walk out (1½ hrs). Drive back to Barcelona; drop off at airport 18.00hrs. |
Having met the group at Barcelona airport we head north-west, past Montserrat, to our entry point to the high mountains of the Twisted Waters National Park, the steep and dramatic Boi Valley. Here we stop, enjoy a good meal and overnight at a local alberg in the beautiful little Pyrenean village of Erill-la-Vall, which will be our base for the next two days.
As we head up the valley the next morning we find ourselves transported to an alpine wonderland: streams rushing through meadows full of tiny summer flowers and crystal clear crater-like lakes carrying the reflections of stern grey mountains.
In the midst of this imposing scene is the Cavallers lake itself which is surrounded by impressive slabby buttresses and steep outcrops of impeccable granite. The slabs, corners and flakes to be found here hold many delightful challenges for novice and expert alike and this is an excellent place to acclimatise to the rock and to the particular climbing styles demanded by featured granite routes.
After two days climbing around Cavallers, it is time to head into the heart of the National Park: our objective, a solitary mountain refuge perched beside the Black Lake. The rocky Besiberri massif dominates our view to the west, while Comalespasa and Punta Alta loom to the south, and the Travessani needles peep out to the north. From here we will discover inspiring lines and places of stunning natural beauty.
Accommodation in the refuge is dormitory style but comfortable; there are indoor toilets and showers, a store room and dining room/social area. Having installed ourselves we will use the refuge as our base setting out each day with packed lunch to climb the encircling crags and mountains. We do not have to worry about our meals, which will be prepared when we return to the hut each evening.
The final leg of our trip north through the park takes us through a hidden mountain pass and down towards the Restanca refuge and the Val d'Aran. Here we get the opportunity to climb above the crystal clear waters of Ocean Lake or to ascend a dramatic mountain route up the Dragon Spur.
Come Day 9 and it is finally time to leave. We must walk further north out of the national park to be picked up and taken back to Barcelona.
THE CLIMBING
Sector Cavallers
Sector Cavallers offers us a perfect selection of climbs to hone our granite climbing techniques and with over 200 single pitch sports routes, over 100 multi pitch routes (equipped , semi-equipped and traditional) and numerous recommendable big-mountain routes, has more than enough to keep everyone busy.
Here we find a full range of climbing at every level - grainy, grippy slabs dotted with micro-holds requiring balance and concentration; winding cracks demanding good gear placement and confident jamming; 
wonderful laybacks; monolithic overlaps which necessitate rapid decision-making and efficient rock-overs; and dark grooves and chimneys calling for a calm head and our full repertoire of bridging techniques.
Sports climbers should head for sectors such as African Wall, the Pastry Shop and the Helmet which boast some of the most beautiful sports routes in the Pyrenees. For those preferring longer routes the Needles of Comelestorres towering far above the lake offer a wide range of trad and equipped multi-pitch routes up to 250 metres long (grades range from 4+ to 7a). Exceptional routes include: The Usual Suspects, a unique line snaking up a steep and airy arete (160m, 3 pitches, 6a, semi-equipped); Stepping Out, with its impeccable dyke-seamed slab pitch (145m, 3 pitches, 6a, equipped); Nut Killer, following characterful cracks and small corners (235m, 7 pitches, 6a, semi-equipped); and Spanish Tango, an excellent and sinuous route connecting the best crack and flake pitches on the main needle (235m, 7 pitches, 6b, semi-equipped).
Sector Travessani
Sector Travessani is famous for the variety of technical climbs that it offers. With over 150 single pitch sports routes, and innumerable multi-pitch climbs and several 3000m peaks in easy reach it is a veritable treasure-trove of quality granite climbing.
The array of single pitch crags is impressive. They provide routes of every imaginable kind from 5 metres to 50 metres and from IV+ to 8a+. You could easily spend a few weeks here without touching your rack.
Those of a more traditional persuasion will not be disappointed however. To the north the Needles of Travessani provide an obvious starting point with 100-200m trad routes ranging in grade from IV+ to 6c. While to the west, towards the Besiberri Massif, we find the Sugarloaf Mountain and (amongst many other persuasive reasons to get out your nuts, hexes and friends) the super recommendable 'Pilastra Alternativa', 240m, V-.
Slab fanatics should head for the Needle of the Magic Corner to climb the wonderful and equipped 'The Wonderful World of Pax', 135m, 6a+, or the Magic Corner itself, a trad outing at V+. Those in search of a great classic crack climb should take on the 'Mordor Spur', 200m, 6b on the Lake Wall.
For big mountain routes we recommend the north face of Comalespasa with serious 200m routes ranging in grade from V to 6c. Or why not just explore? Maybe you can open a new line of your own...
Sector Restanca
Here again we find a full range of both sports climbing and longer trad and equipped routes. Close at hand are the many sectors opened by the refuge keeper (4+ to 7a), offering everything from delicate slabs to steep finger cracks. Slightly further afield the unmissable trad classic, Great Corner on the Dragon Spur of Tumeneja, is an unforgettable outing (160m, 4/5 pitches, 5+, trad). A long mountain day out takes in the summit of Tumeneja itself (2783m) following Via Evident (250m, 7 pitches, 4+, trad). Meanwhile, the steep slabs and corners of Mare Nostrum begin on hanging belays just metres above the crystal clear waters of Ocean Lake. The lines here are truly magical and offer the contrast of 5+ corners and 6b+ slab climbs up to 100m long. There is always something here to bring everyone's trip to a memorable completion.
